MIPTC #19 - Bonnet Huteau Les Bonnets Blancs 2021

I don't know about you folks, but I have always kind of fought with the topic of food and wine pairings.

It's not that I don't "believe" in them per se. In fact, I very much do. Sometimes, an OK wine and an OK dish will become great once you pair them together. This is a typical realization of the better-than-the-sum-of-its-parts argument of hardcore pairing fiends. In fact, the wine I'm going to be discussing today is just made to be paired, so I definitely see truth in the creed.

I guess I only struggle because I think the ethos reduces wine to a condiment: something strictly meant for the culinary arts and without a true soul of its own. Like salt or ketchup can brighten a dish, wine would be meant to serve as the faire-valoir to the food, which should otherwise remain the star of the show.

To this, I say bull. To me, top wine is actually often better when enjoyed by itself. There's less distractions, you can focus on the sensations and emotions it brings up, and it's also way easier to build a conversation around it. Sometimes, the pairing doesn't even have to be with another thing I can taste at all: Champagne and celebration, Albarinho and cold Spring air, Chianti and a roaring fireplace... Sometimes all you want is the right mood and setting, and not necessarily something to munch on.

The good part is that you don't have to pick a side: I have wines in my cellar I know I'll drink on their own along with good company, while others are meant to serve a particular pairing purpose. For instance, I only really drink Zinfandel when I'm having ribs or burgers, and I always have a bottle of Gewurztraminer around for whenever the mood for a Swiss cheese fondue will come up. And for oysters, well... I always have a few examples of this fine one here:

As you may know, oysters are at their best (and cheapest) in the months that end in -ber. It is therefore prime season pretty much right now... except maybe for you folks in the other hemisphere (would be curious to know how this translates for you - please comment!).

If you're into oysters (and if you're not, you're definitely missing out - though we can still be friends as I'm still happily married to one of you people - then you just have to try a Muscadet pairing, and maybe this one especially as it presents exceptionally good value and some of the cleanest flavors I've had from the appellation in a while.

For background, the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine appellation extends across the Loire region, just at the South East of Nantes. It takes its name from the two rivers that flow through the area. Don't be fooled, however: though the grape that makes this is often called "Muscadet", its real name is Melon de Bourgogne (literally "Burgundian melon" - confusing, I know). It is a classic pairing for shellfish dishes in France, but often found to be a little tame (read: boring) otherwise. This one is fine regardless of the setting, but really shine with a full plate of juicy oysters.

The Skinny

• From: Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine, Loire Valley, France

• Varietals: Melon de Bourgogne100%

• Price: $20,15 CAD

• Feature: Organic, natural wine

Tasting Notes

On the nose, you can feel a hint of sea air and wet rocks that set the stage for all that comes next: a very crisp wine that is ethereal and clean throughout. There's a bit of mandarin there too, as well as lemon zest and juice. Also a hint of heather flower and daisies. This may sound a bit bland, but it just works in context: the way this works together feels like taking a walk across a Normandy beach. If you know you know, as the kids would say.

On the palate, this is again fresh and clean, and what you immediately get is how mineral this wine is. Now, "minerality" is a very contentious subject in wine circles (since it hasn't been proven that minerals effectively travel to wine), but that's how it feels to me - so sue me (please don't I'm done litigating). There's a bit more white fruit here (think peaches and mandarins again) as well as bright citrus notes. Everything is beautifully balanced with nothing real taking center stage - think well rehearsed choir rather than rock concert. Acidity is - again - fresh and vibrant without being overwhelming, and the very reasonable 12% ABV alcohol level is in full-on stealth mode, showing great integration throughout.

Cutting To The Chase: Does It Please The Cork?

I really like this. So much that I bought a full case the first time I tasted it at a local Montreal restaurant. While this is a bit subdued compared to what I normally enjoy, I don't want my tastebuds rocked out every day, and this does fit that mood very, very well indeed.

And when you break out the shucking knives to have an oyster party, you can be sure I'm bringing at least a few. At this price, it'd be foolish to only bring one!

Cork Score: 3/5* - special mention for price-quality ratio as I'd happily pay 35$ a bottle for this kind of quality.

***

*Here's the lowdown on the scores, by the way. Essentially, I don't believe in 100-point scales for things as subjective as wine. Simply put, I just don't think one can credibly justify a 1% or even a 10% increment between two wines. I therefore choose to go a bit more basic. Here's how I break it down:

• 1/5: Seriously faulty, terrible, undrinkable;

• 2/5: Flawed and/or of bad quality. This is the type of stuff you should probably cook with and not drink;

• 3/5: Decent. This is where most entries will end up. These wines are clean and well-balanced, but not particularly memorable and/or exceptional. They are recommendable, but not an experience per se;

• 4/5: Exceptional. I sadly drink few wines that get this rating, but my purpose is to drink more. This denotes a memorable bottle that brought up some kind of emotion in me. This left a mark, and odds are I am now busy recommending it to everybody I know;

• 5/5: Perfect. I think I have probably tasted less than 5 bottles that would have qualified for a 5/5 in my entire life. This denotes an absolutely incredible wine that will imprint a definite memory for years to come - a true experience in itself.