MIPTC #30 - Domaine Thymiopoulos Naoussa 2019

And here we go for another edition of this fine Friday wind-up newsletter! I hope your week was smoother than mine, because this one was truly a whirlwind. Sheesh.

Now, before we get started talking wine, I thought I'd float an idea with you. To be fair, I'm starting to fall out of love with LinkedIn's newsletter tool. It just doesn't feel this good to use, to be honest. For instance, I have no readership metrics, no open rates, no ability to post/edit from mobile, and I have to make a post every single time a post a new edition. I am therefore strongly thinking about taking this newsletter to an alternate provider (a more traditional email format) to iron those quirks. Is this something you'd mind doing? Let me know in the comments and I'll try to get something together before the next edition if I can find the time.

OK, that being said, let's move on to the fun stuff! This week, I'm fighting the harsh Canadian cold - and the 2 feet of snow we got in the last week (!) with some sunny Greek vibes.

Greece, says I? Yes! Though few people know about it, Greece has been a reliabily amazing source of great wines for literally thousands of years. From red to white to rosé, I don't think I would have hard time drinking only Greek wine for a good while - it's really that good! There is obviously cheap stuff that has the potential of turning you off the country as a whole, but that's sadly true of every place on Earth (and I'm especially looking at you, Central Valley of California!)

This week's chosen sample is from the Naoussa appellation, which was officially Greece's first "official" one as of 1972. Located on the slopes of Mount Vermion, vineyards here are planted almost exclusively with Xinomavro, a grape known for relatively light yet flavor-packing reds. Those who enjoy Southern Italian wines will be right at home here: while Italy's Negroamaro, translates as “black-bitter,” Xinomavro means “acid black.” Now, it's obvious those names won't make wine fly off the shelves, but it's still cool to notice how similar they were independently understood to be.

Personally, I like to think of Naoussa as a killer alternative falling somewhere between Burgundian Pinot Noir and/or Piedmont's Nebbiolo. It can really be that good: high acid and light coloured, yes, but with the level of finesse and complexity you'd normally find in more classical (and definitely more expensive) bottlings.

OK, now that we have a bit of history and a sense of the place, let's get tasting, shall we?

The Skinny

• From: Naoussa, Greece

• Varietals: Xinomavro 100%

• Price: $23,85 CAD

• Feature: Organic wine

Tasting Notes

On the nose, this is a bit unusual, but not in a bad way. First note I got were Kalamata olives (though perhaps a region-induced bias), but soon came the sour cherries which then turned to dominate the wine's profile. This is light and dancey, with a kind of come-hither vibe that wants to have you get closer to appreciate everything it is hiding except to those who really care. Quite a bit of sweet spices, pot-pourri (in a good way) and some cedar notes in the background as well.

On the palate, this is definitely light-bodied and on the livelier side. I appreciate the suppleness, which still gives way to small, noticeable tannins and a backbone of fresh acidity. This is a very versatile wine that would fit on most tables, as it is not as "typed" as most of the stuff we tend to drink these days. Finish is not that long, but this is the kind of stuff you want to drink among friends without agonizing over. The alcohol is also well-balanced and does not lead to any sense of burn despite the 13.5% and light body, so I say job well done.

Cutting To The Chase: Does It Please The Cork?

Yeah! I've actually been a fan of Domaine Thymiopoulos for years, as their bang-for-buck ratio remains among the best in the business year over year. This is finely crafted stuff in an accessible style (and price point), but without losing the key characteristics of what you'd expect Naoussan Xinomavro to be. Plus, the inherent versatility of the varietal and wine style makes it a great drop to keep around just in case. So yeah - do find a bottle if you can and tell me what you think!

Cork Score: 3/5*

***

*Here's the lowdown on the scores, by the way. Essentially, I don't believe in 100-point scales for things as subjective as wine. Simply put, I just don't think one can credibly justify a 1% or even a 10% increment between two wines. I therefore choose to go a bit more basic. Here's how I break it down:

• 1/5: Seriously faulty, terrible, undrinkable;

• 2/5: Flawed and/or of bad quality. This is the type of stuff you should probably cook with and not drink;

• 3/5: Decent. This is where most entries will end up. These wines are clean and well-balanced, but not particularly memorable and/or exceptional. They are recommendable, but not an experience per se;

• 4/5: Exceptional. I sadly drink few wines that get this rating, but my purpose is to drink more. This denotes a memorable bottle that brought up some kind of emotion in me. This left a mark, and odds are I am now busy recommending it to everybody I know;

• 5/5: Perfect. I think I have probably tasted less than 5 bottles that would have qualified for a 5/5 in my entire life. This denotes an absolutely incredible wine that will imprint a definite memory for years to come - a true experience in itself.